Waiting for love

Last week I was privileged enough to spend some time volunteering at an orphanage here in Daegu. After contacting the orphanage via email to enquire as to volunteering opportunities I was invited to attend their annual Christmas party for games, pizza, carols and a movie.

To be honest I really didn’t know what to expect. I had no idea of their ages or individual circumstances or even what sort of organization the orphanage was. On Saturday afternoon I arrived at Ansim station where I met Todd, who is heavily involved with the orphanage and the local church. We also met several of the other volunteers and then headed over to the orphanage.

The building itself is located on the outskirts of Daegu in what appears to be a much lower socio-economic part of town. Slightly run down, it may have been a school in a former life although it is difficult to tell. It is in a slightly industrial area, which no doubt ensures a reasonable level of rent (assuming any is paid of course) and fronts onto a large and dusty outdoor recreation area and car park.

The kids were shy at first but quickly warmed up to the new faces – even the quietest of them were running around like lunatics and begging for piggyback rides. It was great to see their personalities coming out, as there were some rather nervous looking kids when we first arrived. Members of the local church began to trickle in throughout the afternoon along with local Korean teachers who also volunteer at the orphanage – some even living there full time to help care for the kids. The relationships between these teachers and church members appeared very strong and it was clear that these are very important people in their lives. After meeting with a lot of them and speaking to them you can’t help but wonder if these kids are in a better place now than they ever have been. The volunteers I spoke with were all kind, generous, intelligent, cheerful and infinitely patient. What better role models could you ask for given the circumstances?

Throughout the afternoon we played games, watched some performances by the kids and even staged a performance of our own. After carol time Santa made an appearance and gave each of the children a present which they were absolutely thrilled with. One of the little boys received a remote-controlled toy car which went down an absolute treat. He stopped playing with only long enough to jam a couple of pieces of pizza into his mouth before resuming ramming it into peoples ankles and mastering the art of the wheelie.

One little boy was absolutely adorable, and it broke my heart to think that someone out there simply didn’t want him, or his seven year old sister who was also at the orphanage. Apparently his parents split up and decided that neither of them wanted the kids so they simply gave them to the orphanage and moved on. He was a dear little boy with a very laid back and adaptable personality. At only 20 months old it was both fortunate and sad that he was so comfortable in the presence of so many strangers – whether this is testament to his personality or his unstable upbringing I do not know. His sister seemed very much the same – a very pretty little girl who was friendly and eager to participate in everything from singing to games to cleaning up afterwards.

Mi Young - aged 20 months

Oh boy, a present from Santa!

Looking at these kids it was hard to believe that some of them have had such turbulent pasts. I have no idea of the backgrounds of most of them, but for the most part the parents have generally split up and decided that neither of them wants to take the children. Or, in a number of cases the children have been left with the mother who is often young and generally unable to support them financially. A very sad situation indeed and one I find difficult to understand, particularly given some rather contradictory aspects of Korean culture.

On one hand, Korea is a very harmonious and collective culture and it could be argued that they look after their families far better than the majority of western countries. On the other hand, Korea is also a culture built on social hierarchies: where respect and obedience is critical to maintaining social harmonies. Any deviation from the expected social plan (i.e. school, university, marriage, children, and career) is considered shameful, particularly where children are concerned.

To be an unmarried mother in Korea is considered immoral and deplorable. These mothers are considered to be the lowest rung on the societal ladder, are socially ostracized and often alienated from their own families as a result. Unwed mothers are regularly turned down for jobs. There is no getting around this, as to not disclose this fact will only lead to accusations of dishonesty and termination of their contracts. The government takes a similar view – children born out of wedlock are entitled to only around US$45 a month in support. Korean children adopted into Korean families are entitled to US$85 a month. Incredible when you think how much money the government must give in order to subsidize the large number of orphanages throughout the country.

The government is trying to increase financial benefits for unmarried mothers but social stigma is proving to be a huge barrier. Nobody will come forward to claim these benefits – they would sooner have an illegal abortion or have their child in secret and relinquish it to an orphanage rather than face a lifetime of stigma at the hands of general society.

More recently, Korea’s first unwed mothers support network has been established – the first of its kind in the country. It is incredible to think that a country would sooner ostracize members of society and adopt its children internationally rather than provide the necessary support for women who genuinely need it. With any luck this organization (and future organizations) will, in time, help to remove - or at least lessen - the stigma of unmarried mothers.  In turn, the need for so many orphanages will no longer exist and the lives of so many women and children will not be so miserable. We can but hope.

If you want to read more on this topic I recommend checking out this article – a fascinating insight from both an unwed mother and a Korean adoptee. This is also a great article – a little older, but the sentiments and attitudes it speaks of are still rife in Korea.  Older still but equally as fascinating is this piece from the South China Morning Post (20/06/98) which refers to some orphans as ‘IMF orphans’, in reference to the IMF’s Korean bailout back in 1997 which was blamed by many for the economic downturn.

Me – I have signed up to volunteer regularly at the orphanage as an English teacher and as a general lackey. These kids need and deserve every opportunity in life and if I can do just a tiny little bit to help it’s got to count for something. Besides – who doesn’t relish the opportunity to be a big kid once in a while?

Singing Christmas carols in English

Having a treat - Dunkin' Donuts in the playhouse

Rugrat central

The Christmas feast put on by the orphanage

One of the evening's Christmas performances

A visit to the 38th parallel

No visit to North or South Korea would be complete without acknowledgment of the nation's turbulent history - so with that in mind, last weekend I headed north to Seoul to check out the DMZ. Formerly one of the most tense fronts of the cold war, it is now the most heavily militarized border in the world.

Being new to this country and still (relatively) young, my knowledge of the Korean war until recently was relatively scant. I have since done a lot of background reading and have been both intrigued and horrified by what I have learned. Nobody ever said war was pretty, but it is difficult to believe that a modern, liberated and capitalist country like South Korea has so recently been the subject of such conflict (and still technically remains at war!). 

Our trip began at 7.00am when we met at the US Army base at Camp Kim, and then headed north to the DMZ. The bus trip took around one and a half hours and offered very little in the way of scenery apart from twelve lane highways (increasingly lined with barbed wire) and the occasional guard post. Upon arrival in the DMZ, a member of the US military boarded our bus and checked our identification. Interestingly, there are a number of nationalities who are not permitted to enter the DMZ - I understand also includes South Koreans.  

After having our I.D checked, we boarded a 'secure bus' (see non-heated and designed for military use, not comfort) and headed through the DMZ and into the JSA (Joint Security Area).Our first stop was Freedom House, which was constructed in 1998 specifically for meetings between North and South Korea. We passed through the building and out onto the other side, where we stood facing a number of small single-room buildings (much like pre-fabs) and another building very similar to Freedom House directly across from us. 

As it transpired, we were looking directly at Panmun-gak, which sits on the North Korean side of the JSA. It was originally constructed in 1969, and an additional level has since been added by the North Koreans in an ongoing game of one-upmanship (our building is better than yours). On all USO tours you are permitted to enter the Military Armistice Commission conference room (see below), however on this occasion we were not able to do so, due to 'swine flu'. How we could infect an empty building is beyond me, but there you have it. Apparently illogical Korean flu paranoia transcends both cultures AND heavily armed borders! 

In the absence of a visit to the conference room (the main attraction of which is that it is half on North Korean soil), we were regaled with stories of bad behaviour by the North Korean soldiers. Apparently one of the buildings is known as a 'recreation room' but has no facilities for recreation. During MAC conferences the North Korean soldiers demonstrate their maturity by entering the building and making throat-cutting and rude gestures through the windows at conference participants. Consequently the name of the building has been changed unofficially from 'recreation room' to 'monkey house' by American and Korean soldiers. To be fair to the North Koreans, I suppose leisurely gesturing is a form of recreation, is it not?

As you will see from these photographs, the South Korean soldiers are still actively patrolling the Military Demarcation Line (MDL), or Armistice Line. The MDL is marked by a series of (1,292 to be exact) white posts, and was established as the ceasefire line at the end of the Korean War in 1953. As well as wearing their haute couture green uniforms (complete with too-short green pants), they also sport mirrored sunglasses as part of their uniform, ensuring that the enemy cannot look them in the eye. Rumour has it that their lovely short pants contain ball bearings to confuse the enemy - the rattling noise makes it harder to detect whether it is one or more people walking. Clever! 

We were told in no uncertain terms to refrain from making any gestures whilst standing outside Freedom House - North Korea's Panmum-gak building is heavily guarded and monitors all movement on the South Korean side of the border very closely. As you will also see from the pictures, there are many surveillance cameras on the building along with an observation room obscured by mirrored glass. No pointing, no waving, no YMCA and absolutely no flipping the bird.

After leaving the JSA we headed back to the outer limits of the DMZ to where it all happens .... the gift shop. You can purchase any manner of useless trinkets here - puzzles, purses, mini ROK army uniforms, money, glasses, and the world's most disgusting soju (compliments of Pyongyang). We opted to buy nothing, and instead headed out the door back to the bus only to discover it was snowing. It was a very chilly day but we didn't expect that! 

We then headed out of the JSA and off to lunch, passing through barbed wire-lined roads littered with land mine warnings. It is so easy to feel like a tourist on a trip like this (after all that is what we are), however seeing signs warning of live mines and being waved through checkpoints by machine-gun wielding officers brings you back down to earth with a thump and drives home the fact that this isn't just another fun trip on the never-ending tourist trail. War is real. The Korean war was (and potentially will again be) real. As you drive through this seemingly desolate and uninhabited no-mans-land you are constantly reminded of the turbulent history of these two countries, of the fragility of peace and the ongoing abeyance of war. 

One of the more positive aspects of the DMZ is the abundance of wildlife which now thrives in the absence of war and human habitation. It has become an accidental paradise: according to environmentalists there are around 2,900 different plant species, 70 different types of mammals and 320 different types of birds living and thriving in the DMZ. The mammal count includes the rather strange 'vampire deer' - called so due to their tusks (in lieu of antlers). Their eyesight is particularly bad, so when frightened, instead of running away, they actually run toward the source of the noise - rather illogical really. Their official name is the Siberian Musk Deer, but vampire deer sounds so much more ... enticing. For those Twilight fans (or otherwise), here's one I prepared earlier. We shall call him Edward. 

Unfortunately due to this accidental paradise's location (i.e. in a war zone) they also share their habitat with thousands of unexploded landmines due to heavy fighting during the war. There are apparently periodic explosions as unlucky deer stumble into mine fields.

After lunch at a Korean restaurant, we headed to the tunnels inside the DMZ. Tunnel 3 (or the 'third tunnel of aggression') has been opened to the public, so we donned our attractive yellow hard hats and headed a few hundred metres underground into the murky depths of what once was a planned assault route on South Korea. We did wonder at first what the hard hats were for (more Korean PC health and safety probably), however as the tunnels got lower and lower, and the 'thunk' of plastic hard hats hitting the metal beams got louder, it became apparent. Fortunately the more vertically challenged amongst us (i.e. me) barely had to bend down at all. At over 6 feet tall Jeremy was not so lucky, and divided his time between Hunchback of Notre Dame impersonations and contributing to the hard-hat symphony that had us laughing most of the way through the tunnel. 

The tunnel itself was discovered in 1978 after a tip-off from a North Korean defector. The North Koreans tried to downplay the existence of the tunnel, saying it was a disused coal mine. To further 'confirm' this statement, they painted the insides of the tunnel black. Unfortunately the geology of the region doesn't support this - it is predominantly granite. Oops. They also tried to attribute the creation of the tunnel to the South Koreans, however the tunnel started in the North and headed south, which begs the question - why would you invade another country only to spend years digging your way back? Logic isn't a Korean specialty but surely even George Bush could spot the flaw in this argument.

In any event, the tunnel came within spitting distance to Seoul (around 50km), and was capable of transporting a full division - around 30,000 fully-equipped soldiers - an hour. A very sobering prospect! In total, four tunnels have been discovered, however US and ROK militaries believe there could be anywhere up to a further ten in existence. They regularly drill in the hope of discovering more but have not found any more to date. 

Our final stop was the Dora-san observatory (a.k.a world's ugliest building), where we were able to see a large amount of North Korea through high-powered binoculars. Strangely enough, there was a yellow line painted on the ground at the observatory, from which we were not allowed to move past to take photos. You can take photos above your head looking out to North Korea, and you may use the high-powered binoculars to admire the view, but heaven forbid you cross that line. 

Foreign policy experts summit: I can see North Korea from my house!

Don't cross that line. And don't ask why ... because we don't know. 

 

The world's ugliest building.

We also listened to commentary from one of the USO guides who provided some fascinating insights to life in North Korea. Recently an industrial zone has been set up in North Korea which is staffed by North Koreans who are in turn employed by South Korean companies. In effect, most of the things you buy that are stamped with 'Made In Korea' were likely to have been made here. Workers under Kim Jong Il's totalitarian regime earn around USD$60 dollars per month, of which his gracious government liberates around USD$54.00. USD$6.00 is apparently an extravagant wage by North Korean standards, as your average worker outside the industrial zone receive around $2.50 after tax. Try imposing a 90% tax rate on any other country and see what happens! 

Another interesting view from Dora-san observatory is of the jamming tower. This effectively jams all incoming foreign TV and radio signals, preventing North Korean citizens from knowing what is happening in the outside world. They (by all accounts) exist in some sort of Orwellian dystopia and are fed a constant stream of propaganda assuring them that they are in fact the happiest citizens in the world and that they have more than they could ever want or need (despite the fact that a third of the country is quite literally starving to death). Communism - the liberation of the people from the burdens of liberty. 

 

“When provoking a war of aggression, we will hit back, beginning with the US!”

There are however murmurings of unrest within the country - defectors are beginning to make their voices heard, and Kim Jong Il's recent show of aggression and disregard for international sanctions has placed North Korea firmly in the spotlight. Famine and the economic crisis have resulted in unrest and lack of discipline in the 1.1 million-strong army. Hunger and poverty are driving North Koreans out of the country (those who make it out alive that is), so it remains to be seen whether the current regime will cease to be sustainable once Dear Leader has popped his clogs. To read more about these defectors, click here or here. Their stories are both heartbreaking and inspirational. 

I have been very tempted with the idea of a tour into North Korea - you can go for five days for around 1,000 euros including flights (ex Beijing) which is a great price. However, since NK is a communist country, all profits from tourism go straight to the government and it is a regime I have no interest in supporting.

And that, dear readers, is all from me right now. There is so much to learn about this part of the world, but I won't bore you with all of it now. There is plenty on the internet to keep you entertained/horrified/educated, so I urge you to check it out. The horrific story of the 1976 DMZ axe murder incident is definitely one to read up on.

Til next time!

Move over Disneyland, here comes Daegu!

The Daegu Safety Theme Park – not quite every child’s dream but something I have seen advertised around the city and am similarly perplexed and amused by. 

After seeing the theme park at Palgongsan on Saturday and being reminded of just how puzzled I was by the advertising, I decided to do some research on it. After all, what self-respecting child would want to visit a safety theme park over a regular theme park? What could it possibly have to offer? Well, after some investigation, I discovered it has a lot to offer, perhaps less so for the thrill seeker and considerably more for the more boring/anal retentive/paranoid. Still, as I delved deeper I discovered that there was indeed logic behind erecting such a white elepant…

The DSTP website’s opening gambit is simple and to the point - "accidents take place unexpectedly in our daily life. When we meet these situations, we may not know what to do. Daegu Safety Theme Park was opened to the public last December, and it was designed to inform you of how to react in emergency situations”. Quite how they came up with the name ‘theme park’ is a mystery, but I guess it’s a logical attempt at selling an otherwise tedious concept.

So what can we see and do at this Theme Park? You’d be surprised – visitors can experience the unbridled exhilaration of a range of attractions including:

• an unparalleled 'historic transition disaster study space'
• Three glorious floors dedicated to subway safety
• a 250 degree three-sided theatre dedicated to educating you on the dangers of mountain and forest fires
• play area - no boring monkey bars and slides here kids. Ambulances and fire engines (sounds like my kind of playground!)
• Find risky factors in our daily lives! 'A space to learn reaction against various risks at home by rotary pannel'.

My personal favourite on the DSTP website was the tab entitled 'every citizen is a disaster'. If they're referring to driving habits they're spot on.

But in all seriousness, I can understand the sentiments of having such a place to educate people. A large part of the focus at the park is on mountain safety as Koreans love hiking but can be somewhat impractical at times. In addition to the park, there is also an outdoor survival education centre nearby which is a pretty smart idea. The numbers of hikers in this country are huge – it is a national pastime and I can fully appreciate the dangers inherent in such a sport, particularly in a country such as Korea where the weather can be very extreme.  A large portion of the park is also dedicated to subway safety. This also sounds tediously boring, but much like the wilderness survival has a very real aspect.

On February 18, 2003 a fire at Jungnano station (central Daegu) took the lives of 192 people and injured 148. A former taxi driver set fire to a subway carriage at Jungnano station using four litres of gasoline and a match. He had recently suffered a stroke and had been left partially paralyzed and extremely disgruntled at his medical treatment. His wish was to commit suicide but he told police that he did not want to die alone and wanted to do so in a crowded place.

Other passengers on the train quickly became aware that the man was attempting to start a fire but were tragically unable to prevent him from doing so. The trains at that point were very new, with the interiors made of highly flammable components such as fiberglass, carbonated vinyl and polyethylene. As a result, within two minutes of the fire starting, flames had engulfed all six carriages of the train.

Tragically, so many people died because of a litany of errors by subway station staff. Upon seeing the smoke, officials radioed the driver of a train entering the station from the opposite direction to tell him to “proceed with caution” (rather than not enter at all). He pulled up alongside the burning train and opened the doors, filling the train with toxic smoke. Almost immediately after, he closed the doors and a fire detector inside the station was triggered, shutting off power to both trains and trapping them in the station.

The following is from a horrifying article on the disaster: “Transcripts show Choi Sang-yeol made three announcements advising passengers in train 1080 to remain seated while he attempted to reach superiors. Finally, he was advised "Quickly, run somewhere else. Go up... kill the engine and go." Choi then opened the doors and fled, but in doing so he removed the master key, shutting down the onboard batteries which powered the train doors — effectively sealing passengers inside. Later investigation showed 79 passengers remained trapped inside train 1080 and died there.”

At that point, subway trains were not equipped with any fire extinguishers, stations had no sprinklers and lacked emergency lighting. An attempt was made to cover up liability in this disaster, but both the arsonist and the driver survived and were later found and sentenced to life and five years in prison respectively for their parts in the tragedy. The incident provoked debate as to whether Korea’s rapid industrialization had resulted in cutting of corners and consequently compromised passenger safety – attempts were made to improve fire standards across the country but action has been very slow due to budget constraints.

The reality of a tragedy like this is almost too much to comprehend. I travel on the subway regularly to this station and had no idea of the horrors it was home to in the past. In a way I can understand the Korean government’s sentiment in building a safety theme park, but building is one thing – having people attend and understand is another. Even more importantly, what’s the sense in having this sort of thing when those who are building and running our state facilities have no idea what to do in an emergency? A sobering thought indeed, and we can only hope that Korea has learned from this tragedy.

Hardly a child magnet...

The Daegu Safety Theme Park as viewed from the outside.

A temple and an insight into Korean parental attitudes. Wow.

Last weekend I visited Palgongsan, one of Daegu’s largest mountains. Situated around 22km north east of the city, It is also home to the famous Donghwasa temple and a myriad of ancient monuments and treasures.

Palgongsan is traditionally hiked by Koreans, however we took the easy route and opted to hike via cable car. The day was absolutely stunning, with not a cloud in the sky. It isn’t until you get out of the urban jungle that you realize just how noisy city life is. As we disembarked the bus, the pace of life seemed to instantly slow to a crawl, and the quiet descended (save for a bus or two struggling up the hill behind us).

We took the cable car up the mountain to admire the stunning views across the city, and after returning we walked across to the Donghwasa temple. Built in 493 (and reconstructed a further eight times), it houses a huge amount of history and important Korean artifacts. The name Donghwasa translates to ‘temple of winter flowers’ and has been designated by the Korean government as the 9th head temple of the Jogyejong Korean Buddhist Order. It was absolutely stunning!

We also visited one of the world’s largest Buddha statues in the grounds of temple. Erected in 1992, it is said to be symbolic of Korea’s wish for reunification. Irrespective of symbolism (other than religion of course) it was a magnificent sight – we couldn’t have picked a more perfect day to visit. There were very few tourists around and it all felt incredibly peaceful and serene.

A Korean friend tells me that during the national university entrance exams (a single eight-hour test for high school students), many Korean parents visit Donghwasa to pray for the success of their children in these exams. Not once, not twice, but once a day for the one hundred days prior to the exam. Incredible! Given that Donghwasa is a good hour from central Daegu on the bus, the determination of these parents impressed me no end. I then learned that these are the ‘lazy’ parents - the more hard-core parents actually hike to Dongbong peak, approximately three and a half hours each way) to pray to another Buddha statue. And yes, they do this every day for one hundred days.

It is a known fact that education in Korea is taken extremely seriously, but I didn’t quite realize to what extent. I hear stories of children and teenagers committing suicide after failing an exam and have often wondered exactly how kids can place such great import on academia. Clearly parental pressure is far greater than I ever imagined it to be. To encourage your child to succeed is one thing, but to reach the extent that a parent would hike for seven hours a day for one hundred days to ‘ensure’ their child passed an examination would create an inordinate amount of pressure on anybody, irrespective of age.

It is said in Korea that ‘ten more minutes of studying will change the face of your future wife/husband". Clearly, from a very early age, parents (regardless of their economic standing in society) instill in their children the importance of making it into the right universities. I’m told that it is very common for Korean mothers to have lunch ‘clubs’, which provide a platform for bragging and one-upmanship.

Korean society has so many different faces; it is hard to put a label on it. I see so many different aspects (or ‘isms’ as the case may be) reflecting so many different things –materialism, Confucianism, collectivism, utilitarianism (and lets not forget alcoholism, which is also rife!) - the list goes on. As a country it contrasts hugely with what I have grown up with, but it is for that very reason I find it so fascinating. I’ve no doubt that the New Zealand education system could benefit from adopting some of the practices you see here in Korea, and vice versa – but that’s a whole new rant I’ll save for another day!

To sum up, Palgongsan was beautiful. I was sad I didn’t get there in time to see the leaves turn, but it was still absolutely stunning and I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend it as a day trip (cable car or hiking, you decide!). If I’m feeling brave I will head back in the winter to see the beautiful winter flowers – watch this space!

Buddha statue, Donghwasa temple

Some pretty lanterns on the walk to the temple

The view from Donghwasa temple - stunning!

The view from atop the cable car lookout. What a perfect day!

It's getting cold...

Ok – so just a quick update on life in the R.O.K. Nothing too exciting has been happening, but in the absence of a home computer and Skype I’ll endeavor to keep you updated via this blog until I resolve a few technology issues! 

I’m amped
So my cruddy laptop finally blew up a couple of weeks ago. I purchased a new one, and after a week of waiting finally got it. It’s a beauty – 15 inch screen, enough RAM to support my webcam (finally!) and it even has pink sparkly flowers on the lid. Niceuh! I then had to ship it off to a Korean technician to load up English Windows XP (no more Vista – hooray!). The evening I got it back, the hard disk blew out rendering it completely unusable – “no operating system detected”. Excellent timing, as that evening I had planned to watch a DVD on it with a friend – no go! So … it’s now back with the retailer and it’s either going to get surgery or be replaced. Once I get it back, it has to go back to the technician to have Windows reinstalled again – Fun With Technology. I am convinced I am jinxed when it comes to these sorts of things. 2 laptops and a brand new power adaptor – all dead. That, and everything I touch gives me an electric shock, and my hair is ridiculously full of static. I’m all powered up! 

I’m late
OK – I know I promised lots of beautiful pictures and stories about Nami Island. I’m afraid you’ll have to wait. I had a small issue on Sunday, involving me and an alarm clock. Joanne and I went out for James’s birthday on Saturday night, and had a couple of drinks. I managed to set my alarm for the correct time, but not the correct day. I awoke at 7am – half an hour after I was meant to get on the bus in Yongsan. Panicking, I called Joanne to see where the bus was and if there was any hope of catching it up. She was also still in bed, having also mucked up her alarm. What a useless pair we were! After a quick phone call to the tour leader we resigned ourselves to the fact that Nami Island was going to have to wait until another day, and went back to bed. Sunday night I went to dinner with Mr Korea and had 보쌈 (bossam), which is steamed pork with a selection of a million different side dishes. It was so good! 

...and I'm cold.

It’s getting pretty cold here now – I’ve purchased two big winter jackets and a heap of sweaters, stockings, socks and scarves. Our school is like a large refrigerator, so no doubt there will be a heater added to the list of acquisitions in the near future! This weekend Drew is coming down from Incheon and we are going to either go up Palgongsan or Apsan (mountains in Daegu). Fortunately both have cable cars for the less hiking-inclined such as myself. It’s going to be pretty cold up there, so I’ll be making full use of my massive winter jacket – I have to buy a hat as well, but the only ones they seem to sell in this country make me look like a teapot so I’m still looking.

More soon!

Korean culture 101: contradiction and curiosity

Korean culture is vastly different to that of any other I have experienced in my travels. I suspect that much of this perspective has come from living and working here (as opposed to just travelling), but even just a few days in this country would be enough to leave you simultaneously awed, amused and perplexed. 

It is hard to put into words the experiences I have had - even a simple trip to downtown Daegu provokes so many thoughts and reactions. I would challenge anyone to complete this trip without thinking at least some of the following:

• "What is he/she thinking?!" (usually in reference to demonstrations of general impracticality, bizarre clothing or a fluorescent dyed dog)
• "Don't these people have any manners?" (in reference to being pushed and shoved both on and off the subway despite it being half empty)
• "You wouldn't see that in my country" (practicality/common sense with regard to general health and safety)
• "That was close" (after nearly getting run over - on the footpath)
• "That's disgusting" (after hearing yet another man emphatically clearing mucous from his throat and spitting it on the pavement in front of you)
• "Have I got something on my face/in my teeth?" (constantly being stared at in streets/stores/subway)

In this post I'm going to attempt to sum up some of Korea's idiosyncrasies - some endearing, others not so much. Enjoy! 

Driving: I've mentioned this before, but the driving here is really a stand-out feature and deserves an honourable mention. I have it on good authority that it takes only two weeks, zero experience and very little effort to obtain a full driving licence - this is abundantly clear from the carnage I see every day on the roads. Move over, Italy and Latvia - you've got nothing on South Korea! Footpaths are not just for people. It is not uncommon to walk along the path only to find a bicyle, motorbike, car or small truck bearing down on you, tooting indignantly. If the light is red, just drive your car up onto the footpath and around the lights - hey presto, wait avoided! Indicators are for decoration, and are not required when executing high speed lane changes. Parking also beggars belief - no matter where you go, you get the feeling you've just missed yet another parking competition for blind people.

After observing such driving it does become clearer however, that our complaints about Asian drivers in New Zealand are not without justification. No matter where they go in the world they exhibit similar driving behaviour - I now understand that their driving skills (or lack thereof) are virtually inherent, and no amount of local driving education (or panelbeating) is going to alter this.

Spitting: This is something I will never, ever adapt to. Despite their paranoia about disease (swine flu!) they do not find it in the least bit unhygenic to spit ... anywhere. Train stations, subways, hallways, you name it. If it doesn't move, spit on it. If it moves, you didn't spit quickly enough! Age and gender are no barrier to spitting either - it's not uncommon to hear someone hoicking up a lung or two onto the pavement and then turning around to find yourself looking at a 70-year old grandmother! 

Holding bags: If you are standing on the bus, it is not uncommon to have a seated stranger take your bags for you. It is considered polite, even though it sometimes seems like you're being robbed ever so politely and willingly. I've had it happen once, and seen it happen to others on many occasions. In most other countries in the world you wouldn't see your bag again, nor would you give it up quite so obligingly! 

Public displays of affection: This is generally something you don't see in Korea, however it is very common amongst same-sex friends. It is not uncommon to see girls holding hands, or boys strolling down the street with their arms around each other. Koreans are very comfortable with their sexuality which at times is refreshing, and other times a litle perturbing! Last night at the gym I witnessed a rather strange sight - a young Korean guy (early 20's) sitting back on a shoulder press while his friend sat straddled across his hips and crotch in order to talk to him. Interesting! 

Making loud noises in public places:  In apparent incongruity to many Korean ways (including loud and disgusting hoiking), Koreans are greatly offended at loud noises in public places - this includes conversation on the subway. I couldn't begin to count the number of times I've been with friends and we've been shushed by locals (usually elderly, but not always!). 

Korean 'love sticks': No, this is not romantic, nor does it refer to some deviant Korean sexual practice. It is in fact the most contradictory term for a stick used to beat children with. I kid you not. Corporal punishment is rife in Korean schools - although technically illegal it is widely practiced and generally accepted (according to surveys around 7 out of 10 schools practice it). Traditionally, Korean children have been viewed as their parent's possessions and are taught to accept punishment as a form of acceptable discipline. Obedience is seen as being essential to maintaining family harmony and taking a beating (whether it be from parents or teachers) is a somewhat abject display of filial piety. This is purely conjecture on my part - I am uneducated on the subject and in no way agree with it or condone it as I believe it is a short-term solution to longer-term problems (and in itself creates further psychological problems). To illustrate this point, earlier this year, a Korean student was flogged over 100 times at school and then went home to commit suicide. There are companies who specialise in making 'love sticks', although these are often replaced with other common household items such as pipes, bats, broom handles, golf clubs and even good old fists.

A lovingly handcrafted Korean 'love stick'

Men with megaphones*:  Quite literally the bane of my existence in this country. We get told off for talking on the subway, yet when armed with a small truck and a megaphone it is perfectly acceptable for anyone to park up in a quiet suburban neighbourhood and shout incessantly into said megaphone. Those who do this are usually hawking some kind of product - watermelons, cassette tapes (yes, they still make them apparently), tangerines - product is no barrier to megaphone advertising. The most infuriating part of the whole exercise is that I can't understand a word they say and generally there are around three sentences repeated. Over. And over. And over again. Usually for long enough to rouse you from blissful slumber early on the weekend, or as I discovered today, at 7am on a Wednesday morning. I tend to keep my windows shut to try and block out at least some of the noise (and the accompanying familiar, full-bodied diesel exhaust bouquet). 

*  This Korean 'phenomenon' was summed up beautifully by Luke Martin (author of ROKetship) - make sure you check it out! 

Removing your shoes: Shoes are not worn indoors in this country - period. At first I found this a little strange, but I have come to accept it, understand it and appreciate it! I first wondered about the logic - after all, we wear our shoes inside at home in New Zealand and it's perfectly ok, right? After wandering pavements covered in mucous, you soon realise that this is an eminently practical idea. When you look at the bottoms of your shoes and think about what you have stepped in that day, it makes absolute perfect sense - I'm going to find it difficult to return to the Western practice of leaving them on when I get home! It scares me to think of all the disgusting filth in our carpets. 

Shopping: Although the selection and stores here are great, I have discovered that browsing in a store is not so much individual pursuit as a team sport. You cannot set foot inside a Korean shop without being greeted and followed around the store by a minimum of one shop assistant. Constantly. When I say followed, I don't mean at a distance. I mean shadowed, stared at, full-blown personal space invasion. In your face. Koreans do not find this unusual in the slightest, and I suspect it is their interpretation of excellent customer service. Unfortuantely it is not mine, and serves only to frustrate me. I often find myself leaving stores because of it - I really have to be in the right mood to shop in this country! It happens less frequently when you shop with a friend, but still occurs. Jeannine and I went into a shoe shop on this premise and were shadowed by a male store clerk who also serenaded us with a Beyonce song ... you don't get that every day! He then proceeded to try and rip Jeannine off to the tune of 40,000 won for a pair of shoes, which he quickly reduced to 10,000 when we began leaving the store. I'd have happily paid him that to stop his atrocious singing!

Ajuma: The quintessential little old Korean ladies. Ajuma are a law unto themselves. Usually elderly, they have black, permed hair, tattooed eyebrows, very colourful clothing and the quintessential pièce de résistance - a large visor. High velocity, low centre-of-gravity, they're feisty and often funny but by god you don't mess with them. They have no hesitation in exercising their Confucianistic right to respect for age and will happily shove you out of the way to get on the bus first, or give you an elbow in the kidneys in order to get that last little free sample at the E-Mart food hall. They don't take any crap from anybody!

To my horror, my Korean teacher also tells me that the term 'ajuma' actually refers to an unmarried woman over the age of 30 - the downhill slide has well and truly begun! Maybe I should invest in a visor...

Free stuff: Just about everything you purchase in this country comes with free stuff. Buying skin care products? Get a free set of tupperware containers and a million different free samples. Buying makeup? Free crockery. Groceries? Free paper towels. Yesterday on my box of cereal I got a free packet of highlighters - go figure. It's definitely not a complaint though, I have received some great free stuff! If I break out some Korean at the local store I get free lifesavers. If you smile at old people, they smile back and sometimes give you fruit (?!). Men give me chewing gum. Little kids give me acorns. Either they're all-round generous or I'm missing some important symbolism! (halitosis? scurvy?).

And that sums up my take on Korean Culture 101. More soon!

Swine flu mania and Halloween

I'm now two and a bit days into a week of no classes .... yes, that's right - swine flu paranoia finally got the better of Seonwon Elementary School and the children have been evicted for a week. Bless. By some stroke of good fortune (hah!) the teachers are required to remain at school for reasons known only to the multitudes of Korean education system bureaucrats. Still, I can't complain too much - I'm student free, have plenty of free time for reading and studying Korean, and relaxing to the soothing, melodic sounds of an electric saw (compliments of the construction crew building our new gymnasium) a mere twenty feet from the door of my office. Said office is also semi-refrigerated, so much of my day is spent boiling the kettle to make tea and re-fill my hot water bottle.


Life in Korea is really enjoyable - unfortunately the weather has started to turn very cold which has necessitated many shopping trips for scarves, gloves, hats and coats. Any exucse to shop really! Since the cessation of my regular trips to Busan I have really been enjoying life in Korea a lot more. I have met so many wonderful people here in Daegu, both English and Korean. I'm getting out and about and trying to see as many other parts of this city as possible and am discovering new, weird and wonderful things around every corner. TIK!


In a couple of weeks I am heading to Nami Island in Gangwon province, which looks beautiful. The information flyer I have states "Nami Island - where men can leave their luggage from everyday life behind and share with nature". I can only hope that women are allowed to do the same. We will be renting bikes and cycling around the island, and also riding a 3-metre 'sky bicycle', the sound of which quite frankly makes me nervous. It looks beautiful though, and will be one of the last chances I get to see the leaves turn before the cold winter finally settles in. We're also going to see Le Petit France, which sounds like a rather bizarre abberation on the Korean landscape but interesting nonetheless. It's the Korean interpretation and 'local experience' of French culture (who needs Paris?!) set to the concept of La Petit Prince. In true Korean style, tourist publicity curiously states that it is "highly popular to family-sized tourists". Given the relative size of Korean people, I can only assume they have a lot of British and Americans visiting. After all, when in Korea, France is high on everybody's list of things to do - is it not?


On the subject of Korean experiences, I have been meeting a few local Korean people . It's great being able to see the city with someone who speaks the language and offers an entirely different experience to the usual Western perspective (and accompanying mangling of the language). Koreans are genuinely friendly people and are never too shy to say hello or help you out if needed. I got chatting to a Korean guy on the bus the other night who has just opened a bar in the central city. He seemed really nice, and has given me some VIP tickets and free drinks when I visit - score!


I also had another date with Mr Korea who seems really sweet. We met on Friday night in downtown - I had just come from dinner with friends down at Keimyung University, and he had eaten also. So .... we went to a restaurant where he proceeded to order a heap of food and some soju. We chatted, grazed and drank for a couple of hours before he whisked me off to a very fancy cocktail bar and then on to a club - all at his expense. We didn't finish up til around 5am, and it was a great night and well worth the sleep deprivation. He neglected to tell me that he was on the 6am KTX to Busan for work so he didn't actually go to bed that night - I don't know how he managed it! I struggled to make Halloween the following evening despite a good six or seven hours sleep. I'm not so sure that date number three is as significant as many people have led me to believe (Korean dating protocols apparently state it means a serious relationship) so I've relaxed on that front a little. He did mention on Friday night however that as the first-born son his parents are pressuring him to marry and have children - definitely one to be wary of! In saying that, he didn't sound too enamoured with that prospect so I didn't flee the restaurant. I definitely think that Western girls have it easier than guys when it comes to dating Koreans. By all accounts the girls are very high maintenance and are expected to pay for everything. So far I've expected nothing and received everything - he won't let me pay for anything. Hooray for my Korean predecessors!


This weekend I'm off to Busan to see Fatima and hit up Centum City (worlds largest department store) for some serious winter clothes shopping. Friday night we're going out to dinner and relaxing, and Saturday night we're going to dinner with Mr Korea and his friend and then out to a club afterwards - I'm really looking forward to it!

Halloween at Skyy Bar, Daegu

Pizza in a cup ... a 4a.m. Daegu delicacy!

Partying it up at GoGo Party for Lia's 'tight and bright' 80's birthday party

Back to my 80's roots...

Well, here I am again. Another day, another dollar, another T.I.K experience!I'll try and keep this brief as I have a little bit of lesson planning to do before I go to bed - it will save me getting up early and preparing something when I'm all bleary-eyed and not thinking straight! That, and I'm meant to be going to the gym tomorrow morning. Hah. 

This weekend was rather eventful - Fatima came up from Busan on Friday night and we headed out to Sugar Joe's to catch Adrenalin's penultimate gig which was brilliant! I also had dinner with Katy, Amanda and Hyemi (my Korean co-teacher) - we went to a curry house in the city and it was good, although quite possibly the hottest thing I've eaten in Korea so far! Even my eyes were sweating.

Saturday we headed downtown where I got a haircut (I found an Australian hairdresser, formerly director of Toni & Guy who charges the equivalent of £15 for a cut and style!). London, you can shove your £160 hairdos! We headed out later that night to GoGo Party for Lia's 80's tight and bright party which was a brilliant night out. As with most boozy nights in Korea it finished at a noraebang, where it was all too much for some - we sang (well, I use the term loosely) and Jeannine and Chris somehow managed to sleep through the wailing. By the time Fatima and I headed home the sun was coming up and we were feeling a little worse for wear. Special mention must be made of Fatima's efforts the following day - she christened my toilet in a most spectacular fashion, courtesy of too many baggie drinks and noraebang soju chasers. I somehow managed to feel rather sprightly the next day, but had other things to focus on ... my first Korean date! 

Fatima will attest to the fact that I wasn't really looking forward to it at all. I was initially, but as the day drew closer I began to have visions of it being tedious - that, and there was also the distinct possibility that he wasn't actually good looking at all, and that I had initially viewed him through Korea's thickest soju goggles. Heavy with trepidation, I set off for downtown and hoped that it would be over quickly and painlessly.

As it turned out, I was pleasantly surprised. I recognised him immediately and he was very friendly and sweet - not to mention very nice looking. Bonus! He took me to a restaurant in the university district where we had a really nice meal and a drink. He was shocked to discover I not only ate Korean food, but liked it - why are Koreans always so surprised? They have the most amazing food! In short, it was a successful night and I'm seeing him again this weekend. He works for one of the big banks here in SK so is currently working in Pusan Monday to Friday and back in Daegu on the weekends. Suits me!

This week is absolutely chocka block already - I have classes and dinner dates with lots of new friends - some of which I haven't even met yet - so the week is shaping up to be a good one! I feel like I never stop in this country, but that's what I love about it. There's always something happening! Korea is dynamic, as they say.

Other little oddities from this week:

• Catching some of my students filming me cleaning my teeth at school. Filming someone I can understand, but your English teacher? Cleaning her teeth? Sad times. 
• Having four little students knocking at my door on Saturday morning - I had not long since staggered out of bed and answered the door looking a little worse for wear. They told me their names were 'Happy' and didn't know any other English so they just stood there grinning and trying to peek around the door into the house. Needless to say, as much as I love my little students, they are far less cute in the early hours of Saturday morning when you've got a hangover. 
• Being asked by a sweet little third grade student if it was ok to write "Oh shit" instead of "oh no!". I told her it probably was better just to use 'no' but didn't elaborate.
• Nearly being squashed on three consecutive crossings en route to my local subway station. This was NOT due to inattention, rather the Korean way of driving (again, I use the term loosely). Red light means go faster.TIK!
• Being whacked across the back by one of the older teachers (ajuma!) at school - apparently she really likes me so I qualify for the special treatment. I'm not sure what it was for, but apparently it meant I'm 'one of the gang'. Ouch.

Speaking of school, swine flu paranoia has well and truly set in. My school has managed to avoid it so far, but today several students were diagnosed with it and they're talking about shutting the school down. Of course as a teacher I still have to go in - ridiculous. Still, it will give me plenty of time to study my Korean as I never seem to get the time outside school to do it! That and I've got three Korean teachers on tap in my office - I might as well make use of them.

More soon!

Things that make me smile

A Korean businessman offering me chewing gum as I sat at the train station drinking my coffee. So considerate! (either that or he could smell my breath from ten paces!)

Being told by little old ladies on the subway that I’m beautiful (I suspect they actually mean “you’re in my seat”)

Being offered food by random strangers in restaurants and public places – Koreans are genuinely friendly, generous people and it makes a refreshing change from London!

I also love the honesty and sweetness of my little students – here are a few gems from their English speech competition entries:

“I want to be a warm-hearted doctor” – sixth grade boy
“I like listening to music. Daesung (member of Korean boy pop band BigBang) is so cute, that’s why I love him” – fourth grade male student talking about his hobbies
“Anne of Green Gables is a story about a girl with ugly red hair and feckles” (sic) – fourth grade student
“Being afraid of something before you try it is silly, I think”. – third grade student’s speech on rollercoasters
“This story touched my heart. If everyone loves each other there will be many miracles”. Fourth grade boy doing a speech on the story of ‘Heidi’.
“My hamster’s name is Hamsun. He listens to me very much, I think he is smart”. Third grade student speech about her pet hamster, Hamsun.
Finally, there was also the mildly alarming sixth grade boy’s speech about how much he admired his sister – “I want to put her into big people”. (!!?)

A quick two-week mash-up

Well, it has been an eventful last couple of weeks. I'm going to attempt to mash it all into a short entry, minus the not-so-happy bits! Looking back it seems as though I have been doing a lot of thinking recently, and I guess I have. This blog is intended to be a catalogue of my life and times in Korea so it stands to reason I'm going to write about what is happening in my life, and I hope you enjoy reading it.


This weekend I went down to Busan to stay with Fatima, and we were joined by Drew who had made the trek down from Incheon, near Seoul. It was a brilliant and much-needed weekend on the town, with the main drawcard being the 5th annual Busan Fireworks Festival! Drew and I both arrived Friday night and set up camp at Fatima’s apartment. After a couple of glasses of wine we went out on the town to meet up with a group of others for a few drinks. It was a great night of noraebang (that’s karaoke), drinking and dancing. I even met a very attractive 29 year old Korean guy from Daegu – what are the odds of that? He is taking me out in Daegu this weekend, but how it goes remains to be seen. I’m picking that it will most likely be an exercise in futility (and particularly bad sign language) but you never know til you try, right? I’m also particularly mindful of the Korean courting process – I hear that after three dates you’re considered officially dating (apparently not in America!), and if you meet the parents then you might as well clip the ball and chain on! Run, Di! Run! Needless to say, there will most likely be an entertaining (if nothing else!) post coming up on this blog - stay tuned!

The festival fireworks themselves were absolutely incredible – we watched them from the comfort of an apartment rooftop at the western end of the beach.  The whole show lasted the best part of an hour, and it was an amazing sight to behold. I took a few photos, but for the most part just lapped it up and thought about a lot of stuff. I seem to have been doing that a lot lately! Kate and Al got married that same night, so I thought a lot about how that was going and what everyone back in NZ was up to. After the show a few of us went into Kyungsung for the evening – again I met some great people and it was well worth the hangover and sleep deprivation the following day!

Looking ahead I’ve got a lot to look forward to – live music gigs to go to, 80’s tight and bright parties, Halloween, tours to other parts of the country and also the arrival of a friend in a month or so. We’re going to tour Daegu and Seoul in search of puffy little dyed dogs and the sorts of experiences only Korea can offer! Til then I’ll be hunkering down in warmer clothes as the weather is starting to get a little cold and wintery. On the upside of course, the leaves are all turning and the autumn colours are absolutely stunning. I will try to get out and take some pictures while I still can!

I'm also one month into my Korean lessons, and although it's challenging I'm once again relishing the opportunity to study and get my brain working again! Teaching elementary school students doesn't exactly provide a cerebral workout, so now that I've completed my TEFL certification I'm getting stuck into (and on!) Korean. 그것은재미있어요!

For Grannie

Well, it’s been some time since my last entry – two weeks in fact. And what a ride it has been – so much has happened, so much has changed in such a short time. 

Last Monday, 12th of October I had a call from New Zealand to say my grandmother had passed away. You can never quite prepare yourself for the actual event of someone’s passing, regardless of the circumstances and no matter how imminent. Those phone calls are what every traveller dreads, but are an unfortunate by-product of life, travel and our own mortality. All you can do is hope the calls don’t come, and hope that when they do you have the strength to deal with them on your own!

In a way, it was a blessing for my grandmother as she has not been in the best of health and had all but made the decision to move on. Stubbornness runs in the family, and I have nothing but respect and admiration for her decision. I loved my grandmother very very much, and feel so fortunate to have had her in my life for this long – I can only hope to do her proud in following in her footsteps as a teacher (I suspect she was eminently more patient than I am, and I daresay more ladylike)!  I will certainly do my best.

I was thinking about her the other day, and remembered a toast she used to say at family gatherings. Given it has been thanksgiving recently here in Korea and I have been teaching my adult students about toasts, I included it in my lesson for them. I felt it was quite befitting as one of them had just become a grandmother for the first time, and in a way it was also my own sort of (private) tribute to Grannie. So...

Here’s a health to all those that we love
Here’s a health to all those that love us
Here’s a health to all those that love them
That love those
That love them
That love those
That love us

(Partially) philosophical musings

Well, the honeymoon phase is supposedly drawing nearer to a close, but I’m still just as happy here now as I was six weeks ago. I’m slowly getting to grips with the Korean way of life, and learning the language. It’s quite a buzz to be able to go out and read some of the signs and menus (although understanding what the word means is a whole different ball game!). I’ve begun to establish a routine, which includes much more sleep than I was previously getting, and also going to the gym. 

The highlight of my day is still lunch – I could never get sick of the food here (just fat!). How anyone could come here and want to eat ‘western’ food and pay a premium for it is beyond me. But then again, everyone is different. I guess I’ve been away from home for long enough not to be homesick or crave particular foods (that said, please forward any jars of marmite, marshmallows and peanut slabs to my home address!).
It seems a little strange to see friends around me (some of whom are traveling for the first time) get homesick. I guess it hit me when I first went traveling but I’ve been moving around so much over the past few years that in some ways homesickness doesn’t really affect me as I have no tangible ‘home’ to go back to. New Zealand will always be home – don’t get me wrong – but I speak of home in the sense of bricks and mortar, as a familiar house or place of residence. Home is always going to be where my  family is – I guess distance has become all too familiar and the addition of technology (hooray for Skype!) means I can keep in touch with loved ones by way of phone and webcam which makes it infinitely more bearable.

I do miss my family and friends a lot, and have recently been considerably frustrated at events that are occurring for which I cannot be there for – both good and bad. New babies (Sas & Stu!), weddings (Kate &  Al!) , housewarming parties (Mel &  Thom!), and the not so good – family issues, sickness and the passing of loved ones. It’s times like this that I realize that every day is a gift and regardless of where I am in the world I need to appreciate and give thanks for my life, health and happiness. Over the last year or so I’ve become all too familiar (perhaps uncomfortably so!) with the concept of life and mortality, and as such have come to the conclusion that irrespective of where I am or what I do, the one thing I don’t want is to have any regrets. Granted, there may be some poor life decisions (dot com!) along the way, but life is all about learning. As ‘they’ say (whoever ‘they’ are), the only real mistakes are the ones from which we learn nothing. Mark Twain said it better than I ever could: “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did.”. So … onwards and upwards – Korea!