Palgongsan is traditionally hiked by Koreans, however we took the easy route and opted to hike via cable car. The day was absolutely stunning, with not a cloud in the sky. It isn’t until you get out of the urban jungle that you realize just how noisy city life is. As we disembarked the bus, the pace of life seemed to instantly slow to a crawl, and the quiet descended (save for a bus or two struggling up the hill behind us).
We took the cable car up the mountain to admire the stunning views across the city, and after returning we walked across to the Donghwasa temple. Built in 493 (and reconstructed a further eight times), it houses a huge amount of history and important Korean artifacts. The name Donghwasa translates to ‘temple of winter flowers’ and has been designated by the Korean government as the 9th head temple of the Jogyejong Korean Buddhist Order. It was absolutely stunning!
We also visited one of the world’s largest Buddha statues in the grounds of temple. Erected in 1992, it is said to be symbolic of Korea’s wish for reunification. Irrespective of symbolism (other than religion of course) it was a magnificent sight – we couldn’t have picked a more perfect day to visit. There were very few tourists around and it all felt incredibly peaceful and serene.
A Korean friend tells me that during the national university entrance exams (a single eight-hour test for high school students), many Korean parents visit Donghwasa to pray for the success of their children in these exams. Not once, not twice, but once a day for the one hundred days prior to the exam. Incredible! Given that Donghwasa is a good hour from central Daegu on the bus, the determination of these parents impressed me no end. I then learned that these are the ‘lazy’ parents - the more hard-core parents actually hike to Dongbong peak, approximately three and a half hours each way) to pray to another Buddha statue. And yes, they do this every day for one hundred days.
It is a known fact that education in Korea is taken extremely seriously, but I didn’t quite realize to what extent. I hear stories of children and teenagers committing suicide after failing an exam and have often wondered exactly how kids can place such great import on academia. Clearly parental pressure is far greater than I ever imagined it to be. To encourage your child to succeed is one thing, but to reach the extent that a parent would hike for seven hours a day for one hundred days to ‘ensure’ their child passed an examination would create an inordinate amount of pressure on anybody, irrespective of age.
It is said in Korea that ‘ten more minutes of studying will change the face of your future wife/husband". Clearly, from a very early age, parents (regardless of their economic standing in society) instill in their children the importance of making it into the right universities. I’m told that it is very common for Korean mothers to have lunch ‘clubs’, which provide a platform for bragging and one-upmanship.
Korean society has so many different faces; it is hard to put a label on it. I see so many different aspects (or ‘isms’ as the case may be) reflecting so many different things –materialism, Confucianism, collectivism, utilitarianism (and lets not forget alcoholism, which is also rife!) - the list goes on. As a country it contrasts hugely with what I have grown up with, but it is for that very reason I find it so fascinating. I’ve no doubt that the New Zealand education system could benefit from adopting some of the practices you see here in Korea, and vice versa – but that’s a whole new rant I’ll save for another day!
To sum up, Palgongsan was beautiful. I was sad I didn’t get there in time to see the leaves turn, but it was still absolutely stunning and I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend it as a day trip (cable car or hiking, you decide!). If I’m feeling brave I will head back in the winter to see the beautiful winter flowers – watch this space!
Buddha statue, Donghwasa temple
Some pretty lanterns on the walk to the temple
The view from Donghwasa temple - stunning!
The view from atop the cable car lookout. What a perfect day!
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