View looking from the gate down to the Martyr's Shrine
The temple complex was sprawling and housed several immaculate buildings including a guard house, temple and several smaller buildings of worship. The main attraction at this site is the hourly changing of the guards - a perfectly choreographed and somber affair lasting around ten minutes but well worth hanging around for. We spent some time relaxing in the quite gardens, perusing the scores of plaques lining the walls of the memorial complex. I read many different accounts of heroic, selfless acts committed by the Taiwanese soldiers and it was hard to comprehend that a country like Taiwan which is seemingly so modern and independent could have such a turbulent and bloody history. The English translations of heroicism and bravery were somewhat undermined by the lack of English proofreading - despite the tranquility of the surroundings and the sombre tone of the stories I couldn't help but giggle at some of the wording. For instance, I learned that the Pacific War was in fact initiated by the Japanese in 'Pear Harbour'. Jokes aside, this was one of the highlights of the trip and a definite must-see for anyone visiting Taiwan.
Kristin arrived later that afternoon, and we headed out for a walk around Ximending to see the sights and sample more of Taipei's ubiquitous bubble tea. Later that evening we headed to the Shilin night markets, however my night ended before it had actually begun thanks to what I can only assume was a dodgy Vietnamese lunch earlier in the day.
The following morning we rose early and headed to the 228 Peace Memorial Park which was only a stone's throw from our hotel in Ximen. It was a beautiful, tranquil morning and the park was relatively quiet, save for a few squirrels and the odd person relaxing on a park bench. After a walk around the grounds, Kristin and I decided to have a go at walking the stone path, or 'reflexology path'. Designed to target specific areas of the feet, the stones on the path are inlaid pointing upwards (i.e. set in the concrete on their ends rather than on their flattest surface). They are also very, very painful! Kristin and I were quickly joined by an elderly Taiwanese man who seemed intent on having us experience the full reflexology kit and caboodle. Kristin sat and watched whilst I was led at high speed by the hand from one end of the path to the other (and it felt like the longest path in Asia at that point). After my torture was over, he proceeded to take Kristin through a series of exercises - all conducted on the stones - including facial massage, full body stretching and back massage! I was also made to lie on the stones and roll around - he also attempted to stretch my legs above my head but the pain was too much for my poor body. Lying on stones is not as comfortable as it looks!
"Let me just bend your completely inflexible leg up above your head. I promise I'll stop if I hear anything snap."
We then headed to the Chiang Kai-Shek memorial hall, just a few stops away on the MRT. The memorial is located in the east end of Liberty Square alongside the national theatre and national concert hall. As with so many things in Chinese culture, symbolism was rife in the design and planning of the memorial hall. The stairs to the memorial itself numbered 89, representing Chiang's age at the time of his death.
Chiang is a somewhat controversial figure in Taiwanese history and is both revered and loathed by the Taiwanese. He led China successfully during the second Sino-Japanese war but his nationalist government party was defeated by the Chinese Communist Party with the help of Soviet Russia. He was forced to retreat to Taiwan, where he ruled with an iron fist until his death in 1975. Many statues erected in his honor throughout Taiwan have been removed and there has been much argument for the re-naming of the Chiang Kai-Shek memorial hall, however under the current president this is unlikely to happen.
The following morning after Kate's departure, Kristin and I headed to the Museum of World Religions for a dose of culture. This turned out to be one of our more interesting experiences as we were privileged enough to encounter a helpful man in the subway who not only agreed to show us how to find the building, but also invited us to a special tea and prayer ceremony attended by Taiwanese religious leaders, diplomats and representatives of the ten main world religions. As it transpired, he was actually the President of the Taiwan United Nations organisation and is currently fighting to have Taiwan admitted to the UN independent of China. It was certainly not your average museum visit!
Despite being an independent country (to all intents and purposes) Taiwan is currently represented in the UN by China as it is not considered to be a sovereign state. Interestingly, I discovered that Taiwan is recognised as an independent sovereign country by only 24 countries around the world. Taiwan's applications to join the World Health Organisation (WHO) and the United Nations have been numerous, but each time have been rejected due to it's status as a 'breakaway province' of China rather than an independent, democratic country. A worthy fight perhaps, but from what I understand is somewhat of a losing battle.
After the tea and prayer ceremony we dined in the incredible vegetarian restaurant at the museum, and then headed north to Beitou to explore the town and visit the hot pools. We came across a dragon parade, which Kristin decided she had to take part in to win a long-standing bet with a friend of ours. I also joined in, marching in line with the slightly amorous and dentally-challenged locals. It was a beautiful day for it, and very hot! Photographic evidence in hand, we headed out for what we thought was a brisk walk to the thermal valley. We ended up getting rather lost, but eventually found what we were looking for. Hot and sweaty, we headed further north to Danshui, a gorgeous little port town on the outer fringes of Taipei. After much shopping, eating and relaxing in the sun we headed back to central Taipei to relax for the evening. Bliss!
Without a doubt I would go back to Taiwan for another holiday. After spending just seven days in Taipei itself, there were still so many things I didn't get a chance to see. It would also be an incredible place to visit in summer - I would love to head south to the Taroko Gorge and Green Island for some snorkelling, hiking or biking. So far this is my favourite place in all of Asia, beating out Hong Kong for first place (and that's saying something!).
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