Korea for beginners: An update… life in the R.O.K

Well, it’s been some time since my last post, so I thought I’d better get cracking and write something. It’s been an eventful time – today I have no classes so it is the perfect opportunity to try and condense the last few weeks into a blog post that won’t put you all to sleep!

A couple of weeks ago I went to Busan for the day with Mi Young, a teacher from my school. We were accompanied by her husband and three year old daughter, and two other couples (friends of theirs, also with children). We drove down, leaving at 8am on a glorious sunny day. On the way I was fed up on some amazing food, and then after meeting their friends en route I was also plied with kimbap (delicious Korean sushi with vegetables, crab and sometimes even spam!) Effectively, I ate my way to Busan – it was heaven.

We visited the Busan aquarium at Haeundae beach which was fantastic. Although I’ve been to aquariums before, this had a lot of different sea life in it that I had not seen before. What also made the experience great was the fact that we were there with some little kids – things like aquariums somehow become more exciting when seen with a child! Mi Young’s daughter was so well behaved, and very cute. The penguins were darting around like crazy in their tank and she alternated between staring, mesmerized and squealing as they zoomed past her at high speed. The three other little kids with us were similarly entranced, however two of them weren’t quite as well behaved. One in particular was demanding toys and throwing the odd tantrum, but Mi Young’s little girl was very placid. I bought her a blow-up fish from one of the many stalls in the aquarium and it didn’t leave her hand the entire day – even during her two hour afternoon nap!

We then went to an amazing Korean traditional village for lunch, and ate in a hut with a traditional mud floor and low table. Not the easiest thing to sit at for me as I am still unable to sit cross-legged as a result of my accident, but I’ve learned to adapt by poking one leg out in front of me under the table. Classy. We had some amazing food – the entire table was covered in plates and I didn’t know where to start. I’ve adopted a rule here in Korea – eat first, and ask what it was AFTER you’ve finished. Offal is infinitely more palatable when you think you’re eating a tasty bit of steak! The meal was incredible, and I tried every single bit of food on the table (as is custom in Korea). My favourite (without a doubt!) was Hoddeok, or Korean pancake. More of a dessert food, but it was served up before and during the meal and I couldn’t get enough of it. Most Korean pancakes are of the salty variety, stuffed with anything from kimchee to scallions or even oysters. But not Hoddeok! Hoddeok is stuffed full of delicious brown sugar, nuts, and cinnamon and then pan-fried to perfection. Probably not the healthiest, but worth every single calorie.

Our final stop for the day was the Yonggungsa temple, which is situated on the coast of the north-eastern part of Busan. It is right on the water and is a truly spectacular place. Build way back in 1376, it has been lovingly restored over time and is now both a place of peace and prayer and a tourist attraction (seemingly incongruous, but that in itself sums up many aspects of Korea!). It was here I also saw my first ‘dyed dog’ – see attached pictures. I’m slowly building up a gallery of these, as the mere concept fascinate me no end (and to clarify, this is from a bystander point of view only!). I have been intrigued enough to investigate, and have since learned that it is done for fashion and that if you are wanting to dye your dog (what self respecting person wouldn’t?) you need to invest in special dog dye, as human dye is too toxic for animals. You’ll be delighted to know I’ve saved you the time and effort of researching the best place to purchase your canine-friendly dyes – simply click here. Truly bizarre … but that’s what I love about this place!

More recently we had Korean thanksgiving, which is known here at Chuseok. I went to Busan for the long weekend and had a really good, relaxing time. There were a number of new experiences, including:

My first swim at a Korean beach – Haeundae
My first trip up a Korean mountain (admittedly via cable car instead of the traditional hiking route), where we enjoyed glorious views across Busan. We climbed the side of a hill to sit atop a ledge overlooking the city – it was so serene, with a small prayer house and many birds fluttering around in the quiet afternoon sunshine. The peace and tranquility were momentarily shattered by a Korean hiker hollering “Hello! Where you from!” up the hill, but that’s the Korean way I guess – they will talk to foreigners even when spotted a hundred feet off in the distance!
Purchased my first K-Pop CD (kids, don’t mix soju and shopping, this is what happens!)
Played Jenga in a bar
Went to the world’s largest department store at Centum City – a glorious, 293905m2 monument to capitalism in the heart of Busan.
Found (well, purchased) and ate the most glorious fresh Korean steamed pork bun – heaven in a box!